Europe

Shades of Gray, and Then Some

A particular color can often dominate both the runways and the crowds at any fashion week. But this season, instead of coalescing around a certain shade, designers and attendees seemed to embrace many of them.

On the streets at Paris Fashion Week, summery yellows mixed with autumnal oranges. Dries Van Noten and Valentino evoked springtime by filling their collections with vibrant greens. Black, while not absent, was less potent: Even Rick Owens, who has been called the prince of fashion darkness, brightened up his show by sending clothes in dusty fuchsias and pinks down the runway as plumes of neon-colored smoke were released and vibrant flower petals floated down.

While the runways featured many palettes, there were far fewer body types. Aside from at the Nina Ricci show in Paris, where people of different sizes walked the runway, models were as skinny as I’ve seen them in the more than 10 years I’ve been documenting fashion weeks. And as suggested by the spate of colorful collections this season, variety is never a bad thing.

The actress Yara Shahidi’s palette was as refreshing as a creamsicle.
Her head-to-toe orange was even more invigorating.
She lit up the sidewalk with separates as brilliant as a sunset.
Miu Miu’s latest collection included Speedo-style briefs in several colors. Only time will tell if they become as ubiquitous as its miniskirt.
If those spiky hoops could talk, they might say, “Whisper secrets at your own risk.”
From center left, the rapper Offset, Erykah Badu and Usher brought star power — and some terrific patterns — to the Marni front row.
The designer Gabriella Hearst’s last show for Chloe ended with a dance party in which models demonstrated the versatility of pieces like this draped mini dress.
At the Rick Owens show, models in diaphanous textiles and sharp-shouldered silhouettes emerged through clouds of smoke, as if they had come from some stylish dystopia.
In a few words, this passing exchange between Anna Wintour, right, and the sisters Paris and Nicky Hilton could be described as fame recognizing fame.
As the rapper and singer Saint Jhn demonstrated, the ability to pull off harlequin patterns and lace is not unique to Harry Styles.
Her crouched posture made the tiny bag seem that much bigger.
Walking with purpose can make a good outfit look even better.
They both took schoolgirl style to a more modern place.
Models experimenting with poses might take a lesson from her.
The oversize blazer hit at just the right spot to show off the feathers trimming her skirt.
Feathers also appeared on the runway at Nina Ricci, where they protruded from this gown like acupuncture needles.
Can you identify all the materials used in this Maison Margiela look?
The gray palette of this Peter Do number was as fresh as its silhouette.
Her copper locks were an instant mood brightener.
Rick Owens’s futuristic collection included several outfits accessorized with candy-colored veils.
Undercover’s show ended with a series of illuminated dresses that had flowers and live butterflies in their skirts.
Perhaps the dreamiest element of this Valentino look were the flats that peeked out from beneath the gown.
Dries Van Noten’s runway was replete with vivid prints and dazzling embellishments.
Even though she hid her face, Jenny Walton, an illustrator and influencer, was kind enough to let me capture her charming combination of A-line skirt and kitten heels.
In shades and a lot of black, the comedians Chris Rock, left, and Dave Chappelle blended in with the fashion-week crowd while taking a stroll.
There was a satisfying symmetry to her face.
From left, Alexander Edwards and Cher showed that successful attempts to dress alike as a couple include coordinating hair.
Miu Miu’s corduroy overcoat and mini shorts are the type of risk you hope to find at Paris Fashion Week.
Interesting style, much like the Seine river, commands attention from any angle.
Back to top button