The Ruby Shakes Up Cacio e Pepe in the Former Lucky Strike Space


The Ruby

The chef, Roberto Saverio Rattà, a native of Calabria, Italy, who worked in Europe for most of his career, arrived in New York two years ago. Here, at 38, he has come up with a distinctive take on the ever-popular cacio e pepe. The dish is finished with a vigorous tumble in a cocktail shaker to fully emulsify the ingredients followed by an extra dusting of cheese and a glazing with a blowtorch. This happens tableside at this new cocktail lounge and restaurant — in the former space of Lucky Strike, for 30 years a Keith McNally hot spot until it closed during the pandemic — where Mr. Rattà is now the executive chef. His fairly brief menu is Italian with some twists in addition to the cacio e pepe, like fried burrata, octopus served burger-style with fries, and digressions that include shrimp ceviche, soft-shell crab tacos and New York cheesecake. Most of the wines are Italian; the cocktails occasionally so. The plush premises, designed to evoke the Art Deco era, is owned by Piermarco Diglio, an entrepreneur from Rome just getting his feet wet in the restaurant business.

59 Grand Street (Wooster Street), 646-964-4355,



How long does it take to break in a new restaurant? Chip Smith and Tina Vaughn have been at it for months at Eulalie, their newly reconceived version of the Simone, on the Upper East Side, which closed last year. It’s finally open, Wednesdays though Saturdays. Subdued sage green walls and picture moldings highlighting vintage photos give the room, which had been Drew Nieporent’s Bâtard, a more traditional feel. It’s a pleasant setting for Mr. Smith’s country French fare, listed on a handwritten menu, to accompany the deep yet often uncommon wine list for which Ms. Vaughn is known.

239 West Broadway (White Street), 646-476-2380, no web.

Supper Club by Le Petit Parisien

A French bistro is now tucked into the Upper East Side branch of Le Petit Parisien, the chain of bakeries and sandwich shops. With the chef Josh Newman at the stove, it offers a concise dinner menu Wednesdays through Saturdays with dishes like caramelized onion tart, Gem salad, mushroom pie, steak au poivre, and roast cod with cauliflower, almonds and brown butter. Some sides like honeynut squash with whipped ricotta could satisfy as a first course. Then bring on the chocolate tart for dessert. Beers, wines and aperitifs are poured.

355 East 78th Street, 917-262-0910,

Odd Sister

This Irish addition to SoHo, referencing W.B. Yeats’s two sisters in its name, is owned by Curt Huegel, the founder of Host Restaurants, with other partners. It offers pub food with international touches like bao buns and Basque cheesecake in a brick-walled setting.

45 Mercer Street (Broome Street), 212-966-9288,

Wild Ivy

Mick O’Sullivan, who owns Bell Book & Candle, and Peter O’Connell, of Molly’s and Malone’s, have created this new Irish drinking spot with a tavern menu that includes a 16-ounce rib-eye. Works by Rick Librizzi, a New York abstract expressionist who died in 2021, cover the walls.

293 Third Avenue (23rd Street), 646-649-2389,

Go Beyond Grill

Partnering with Madison Square Garden, Beyond Meat, the vegan meat substitute producer, is opening its first food concession on the arena’s sixth floor concourse. Open during events, it will serve a Beyond Burger, nachos with Beyond Steak, Beyond Sausage two ways on toasted rolls and chili using Beyond Beef.

Madison Square Garden, 4 Pennsylvania Plaza (Seventh Avenue),

Prudential Center

Levy, the Chicago-based restaurant and hospitality company, is the new concessionaire in charge of the food at this redone arena in Newark, N.J. With the theme of Made in Jersey, various drinking and dining venues will include New Jersey purveyors like BroRitos for Mexican food, burgers by Pat LaFrieda (based in North Bergen) and the Jersey Ripper, serving a fried foot-long hot dog served with Jersey jerk relish. New York also has its say with Melba’s Soul Food by Melba Wilson, from Harlem.

25 Lafayette Street (West Market Street), Newark, N.J., 973-757-6000,

Lox at Café Bergson

The new exhibit, “Courage to Act: Rescue in Denmark” at the Museum of Jewish Heritage about how most of Denmark’s Jews were saved during the Holocaust, has inspired David Teyf, the chef of the museum’s cafe, to add several Danish items to his menu. There are three herrings on a plate, a lox crepe cake, herring salad, several open-faced sandwiches and an apple cake.

Museum of Jewish Heritage, 36 Battery Place (Little West Street), 646-437-4202,


Defined as coastal Italian, the chef Michael White’s latest restaurant, to open Oct. 24, is in the Fontainebleau, an imposing hotel that has defined Miami Beach for decades. It will be in the Sorrento Tower, a separate building on the Fontainebleau campus, in the space that previously housed Scarpetta. The menu will feature seafood but not exclusively, Mr. White said. In Miami he’s no longer involved with the Surf Club, and at the moment he’s not cooking in New York, with his gig at the Lambs Club now over. But next summer he expects to open Santi, an Italian fine-dining restaurant that will move into the space that at one time housed his Alto; it will be a partnership with Tishman Speyer, which owns the building. Ingredient-driven, finely detailed food inspired by his career over the years is how he’s conceiving the menu. There will be no tablecloths, for what he’s defining as “truffles and blue jeans.”

Fontainebleau Miami Beach, 4441 Collins Avenue (44th Street), Miami Beach, 305-674-4780,; Santi, 520 Madison Avenue (53rd Street).


Kura Revolving Sushi Bar

This international chain of conveyor belt sushi bars is increasing its presence in New York.

133-36 37th Avenue (Prince Street), Flushing, Queens, no phone,

Looking Ahead

The Dead Rabbit

The Washington, D.C., branch of the highly praised New York tavern will open next year in the Penn Quarter district as the third iteration of this 10-year old magnet for Irish drinking. The second branch, in Austin, Texas, will also open in 2024.

Chefs on the Move

Sebastien Chaoui

This French chef, who worked in Paris for many years, is the new executive chef at Estuary, the restaurant at One 15 Brooklyn Marina, in Brooklyn Bridge Park.

Diego Negri

Mr. Negri, who was the executive chef at St. Theo’s in Greenwich Village, is now in that position at the multifaceted Journey in Chelsea.


Next month the Michelin Guides plan a trifecta, announcing the star ratings for restaurants in New York, Washington, D.C., and Chicago at a big reveal party in New York City. In the run-up to the event, the guides have issued lists of the restaurants to be added this year; all have potential for star ratings. Nearly half of them serve Asian cuisine. For Manhattan, they are Fasano, Little Myanmar, Mischa, Monsieur Vo, Peppercorn Station, Potluck Club, Torrisi, Superiority Burger; in Brooklyn, Agi’s Counter and Kingfisher; and in Peekskill, N.Y., Apropos Restaurant at the Abbey Inn. In Washington, D.C., the additions are Beloved BBQ, Chang Chang, Grazie Nonna, Kappo, Little Vietnam, Petite Cerise, Rania, the Saga, Yellow and Dear Sushi at Love, Makato. And new for Chicago are Atelier, Boonie’s, Cellar Door Provisions, GG’s Chicken Shop, Itoko, Kyoten Next Door, Yao Yao and Obelix.

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